Esquire (UK)

12 Men's Short Sets to Make You Reconsider the Divisive Trend

Esquire (UK) logo Esquire (UK) 16.06.2023 17:54:27 Abigail Southan
Street Style - Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2023 : Day Two

If you've toyed with the idea of a men's short set, make 2023 the year you finally pull the trigger. This doubled-up look is undeniably comfy, easy to throw on and creates the illusion of pulled-togetherness without much effort. We're not surprised searches for 'men's short sets' are up 78% since this time last year.

Ok, perhaps searches are up because men's co-ords have been well and truly - to put it nicely - democratised. But if you're currently conjuring images of Love Island contestants, shame on you: this trend existed long before printed polyester designs dominated the internet. And it still remains a pillar of luxury menswear collections. Dries Van Noten, the king of flamboyant fabrics, has been doing them since 2017. Casablanca put its mark on sporty sets when launching menswear back in 2018. They're a regular in Dior resort collections, and JW Anderson has just dropped a load of a tie-dye and logo terry styles for Loewe X Paula's Ibiza.

And, anyway, men's co-ords are simply an evolution of previous trends that go back decades. Coordinating shorts and shirts have been worn by British army and naval officers since the 1940s. A belted khaki version, better known as a 'safari suit', surfaced soon after. And a sportier take on this trend was huge in the 1980s, when short-shorts and blouson tops were worn with thickly ribbed socks and trainers (we have Luca Guadanigno's Call Me By Your Name and Casablanca for the return of this playful silhouette).

And even the most recognisable men's co-ord, the Cabana set, was actually born in the 1940s. After witnessing the popularity of Hawaiian shirts after World War II, Californian swimwear manufacturer Catalina began experimenting with matching resort separates. Aimed mainly at men, these easy ensembles epitomised a more relaxed post-war lifestyle (a quick Pinterest browse brings up cartoon models laughing and playing ball games).

This look has inspired many a fast fashion incarnation in recent years, but without the original Tiki influences or breezy, beachy fabrics, this trend goes from 'playful' to 'distasteful' pretty quickly. There are some brands however - Orlebar Brown, Frescobol Carioca and, again, Casablanca - who have understood the vintage assignment.

If you're not into the flamboyance of a resort shorts set though, there are plenty of low-key, utilitarian takes on the trend, much like summer workwear - just opt for tonal neutrals, lightweights linen or cotton weaves, boxier shapes, and a longer hemline.

Given that temperatures are already hovering around the 30 degree mark in the UK, you really can't be too picky about throwing a heatwave look, so settle on your short sets camp with our breakdown of the best styles to buy this summer and wear for many to come.

Sean Connery made menswear history when he wore a baby-blue towelling romper in the 1964 Bond film Goldfinger. And while this belted number has since been revived by die hard fans, the 2023 version of this wholly impractical one-piece is a short suit. A pair of easy-to-wear drawstring shorts and a camp collar shirt, to be precise. Fast-drying, stretchy and easy-to-pack, this is a true holiday wardrobe essential.

The cotton short set is a neat-and-tidy take on summertime, compared with louche linen or fluffy terry cloth. Especially once you throw in some pleats, patch pockets, or side adjusters. The more authentic fabrics to go for? Crisp cotton-poplin, anything with a ticking stripe or seersucker details, or a utilitarian poly-weave.

The OG Cabana sets are what comes to mind when we think of printed short sets. This one is the trickiest to do elegantly, but Orlebar Brown and Frescobol Carioca have just dropped some silk-twill designs in retro geometric prints and paisley that definitely cut it. When you're not lounging poolside, go for tricolor stripes, webbing and logos for a sportier effect.

Quieter, and cooler, still, is the linen short set. In all-white, you'll tap into your rich riviera alter-ego. Navy is humbler, while khaki hues - especially grounded with fisherman sandals or a Birkenstock - are erring on hippy dad vibes. Percival's patchwork embroidery is in a whole league of its own however.

If you're more of a minimalist, or you simply refuse to digress from your day-to-day style no matter what the temperature, then all-black designs are for you. Even better: swap the resort shirt for a co-ordinating blazer to 'do' summer in the city right.

Friday, June 16, 2023 8:54:27 PM Categories: Esquire (UK)

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