Vinho verde is one of the quintessential summer wines. It is a denomination, not a brand or a winery, and means "green wine", referring to the fact that it has traditionally been sold - and drunk - while very young. Made in the far north-west of Portugal, in a lush, green, cool climate, it offers up floral scents, citrus streaks, light notes of tropical fruits and, often, a refreshing spritz and crisp finish.
A decade or more ago, stumpy squat bottles of very cheap, often oversweet vinho verde washed up on our shores. Now, most examples are much better - fresher, drier and usually in distinctive tall, slim bottles.
Many are made from a blend of local Portuguese grapes, but do look out for those labelled "loureiro", a grape that creates especially elegant and fruity vinhos verdes. Alvarinho is also used to make somewhat more serious examples, often with slightly higher alcohol levels than usual. Ah, yes, the strength is important - many vinhos verdes weigh in at 10%-11% abv, which makes them highly suitable for parties, picnics and general lazing about in the sun.
I don't think I have ever opened a bottle of vinho verde in winter - you'd be hard-pressed to find a less likely candidate for Christmas drinking. But when the sun is out, as it has been lately, and when we're eating light, simple, fresh food, it goes straight into my fridge.
The best matches are white fish and seafood. Try a cold vinho verde with grilled sardines, as it has the ability to cut through oily fish brilliantly. Or chill it for leafy salads, light vegetable risottos, or just a few salty snacks as an aperitif.
(12%, Morrisons, £8.75, down to £7 until July 7)
Here's a decent offer that lasts into next month on a good high-street vinho verde. It's made from the loureiro grape, not a blend, and is particularly zesty, with a big squeeze of lemon and hints of melon and peach.
(10%, Marks & Spencer, £8, in-store only)
Fifty per cent loureiro in the blend (with arinto and trajadura) ensures this is a brightly fruity version, peach and pineapple standing out. There's a long, tangy finish and it's on the dry side. Not as tart and spritzy as some and a shoo-in for matching prawn cocktails, delicate sole and plaice.
(11%, Majestic, £8.99 or £7.99 as part of a mixed six bottles)
With its scent of white blossoms and freshly chopped lime, this is a summer delight. Green apples roll in on the flavour and there's a light spritz and decidedly dry finish. A refreshing aperitif, or one for leafy salads.
(11%, Telegraph Wine Cellar, £9.95 or £8.96 as part of a 12-bottle case)
Zippy, zesty, youthful loureiro with a light spritz. I picked up apple blossom, lemon and lime and kiwi fruit in its flavours and aroma. A pretty bottle, too - this shouts al fresco summer drinking and would make a great white for hot-weather parties.
(12%, Waitrose, £9.99, down to £7.99 from July 5 to August 1)
Azevedo makes excellent vinho verde and this one is a shade more serious than most, with a lovely fruit cocktail of yellow apples, greengages, ripe grapefruit and mango. It's not spritzy and ends on a moreish note of pithy citrus peel. Note the offer coming soon.
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