I met Lily Heise for the first time in October of 2009 when she came to a Paris blogger meet-up that I planned. So many of my favorite Parisians and Francophiles were there, I feel blessed to have met them all, it was the start of a decade-long online and offline friendships!
Skip ahead a few years and I worked with Lily on a few Context Travel tours in Paris, which enjoyed immensely and highly recommend! (I've done 5 in Paris, 1 in London, and 2 in Kyoto).
In 2013 Lily published Je T'Aime, Me Neither, followed by Je T'Aime . Maybe? in 2016, both of which appear on my Francophile Library & Books to Read Before Visiting Paris post. Known as Mademoiselle Romance, now Lily is back with a new project called "There's Only One Paris" club via Patreon that grants members exclusive access (various levels) to Paris content including copies of her new short participatory stories.
Lily is a long-time resident of the 18th Arrondissement, a.k.a. Montmartre so I am really excited that I finally snagged her for her local insider view of one of Paris's most famous neighborhoods!
Lily has been a tour guide for years, has written a lot about Paris, and is the perfect person to give you the inside scoop!
The backstreets of Montmartre. One only needs to drift away from the throngs of tourists at the top of the hill to find some really charming areas. Montmartre was only annexed into Paris in 1860. From the middle ages to the French Revolution the hill only had an abbey complex and stone quarry, then a village gradually developed in the 19th century.
Therefore, many parts of the neighborhood still retain a village-like feel. The small and winding back streets are perfect for strolling any time of day, but I think the evening is particularly atmospheric! Start up Avenue Junot and let yourself wander, but don't miss Rue de l'Abreuvoir, one of the prettiest streets in the whole city
That some tourists only come in masses and head straight for the Moulin Rouge or Sacré-Coeur and not visit other parts of the neighborhood which are literary paces away from these overcrowded sites. The district has much more to offer!
The views. There are a few other former villages within the current Paris city limits, like Charonne, Buttes-aux-Cailles, Les Batignolles, or Passy, however, few other places in the city can boast the stunning views that can be admired from Montmartre. Always be on the lookout! Some of my favorites are included in this article I wrote on the subject.
SyLon de MontMartre. This newish café is tucked away on a side street just south of rue des Abbesses so it's more for locals in the know. It has a modern decor, however, a warm and cozy feel thanks to colorful cushions made of exotic prints and great coffee.
It's tough to narrow it down to just one. so I'm going to cheat and list two. If you're looking to soak up the neighborhood ambiance, then nothing beats the terrace of Au Petit Montmartre. The only café right on Place des Abbesses, you can order un verre de vin or pinte de bierre and watch the local Montmartois come and go.
It's also one of the sunniest terraces in the area, so come from mid-afternoon to early evening. Alternatively, if you want a wow factor then make your way to the top floor of the Terrass Hotel, home to one of the best rooftop terraces in all of Paris. From its heights, you can see all the whole city. It's a tiny bit pricey, but worth it for the views.
Le Village. As its name indicates, this is a great local café amidst the many tourist-oriented ones that now line row des Abbesses. It's small and most people can be found on the terrace, it's perfect for a coffee in the morning or great value apéro at the end of the afternoon.
Coquelicot. It's hard to beat the breakfast and quality at this great neighborhood bakery. They also have an excellent array of "formule" options to suit all levels of hunger, from un grand bol de café with a croissant to a decadent cheesy omelette with pommes sautées. Their outdoor seating is highly coveted, but they also have tables upstairs. Be forewarned that service can be slow, but sit back and relax. you're in France after all!
Bossue. On the end of rue des Abbesses when it becomes rue Joseph de Maistre is this fabulous modern café. They serve some great creative light lunch options and have a wonderful selection of pastries. This is great for a delectable afternoon coffee break and Sunday brunch is also popular here.
Ma Biche. Being located off the main drag of rue des Abbesses has helped this restaurant maintain its local character. It has a simple typical bistro decor and serves regularly changing dishes using seasonal, excellent quality ingredients personally sourced from producers.
Villa Léandre. It's impossible not to fall in love with this picturesque "villa" street located off of Avenue Junot. The pedestrian lane is bordered by charming 2-3 story houses built in the 1920s, each different from the next. Look out for the small details, like windmills on the fences, some ceramic birds, and a nod towards our British friends at #10.
Merci, Lily!
Fin!
You can connect with Lily on Twitter, Facebook, or Instagram, and of course on her blog. If you want to further support Lily (I am!) read more about her Patreon project, There's Only One Paris here.
Don't miss Elaine Sciolino's book Life on the Rue des Martyrs, an amazing market street that runs through the 18th!
How about you? Do you have any 18th arrondissement additions? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?
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The post Paris Profiles - 18th Arrondissement (Montmartre) with Lily Heise appeared first on Misadventures with Andi.