One of the best ways to experience the most delicious food that France has to offer is at an outdoor market (farmer's market) or marché. Every town or village in France either has one or is next to a town with one. In Paris, you will them throughout the city in each of the arrondissements, so there is always one to shop at!
Before you head out, I'd like to share some tips and tricks - French market etiquette - that will make your experience more enjoyable and your interactions with vendors more pleasant.
The markets come in various sizes and shapes and some markets are better than others or are known for certain products or characteristics. The best way to find what you like is by exploring, you can go to a different marché every day. You can see more information on how to find them at the end of this post.
I've said it before. Many, many times. When you enter a restaurant, a store, or walk up to a market stand in France, do not do anything else, or say anything else, before you say BONJOUR. Bonus if you add "Monsieur" or "Madame" after it. I cannot stress this point enough.
It is your key to any interaction in France. One of my favorite authors, a couple actually, Jean-Benoit Nadeau and Julie Barlow, have written really great books on French culture. Their third book which came out at the end of last year called The Bonjour Effect: The Secret Codes of French Conversation Revealed is an excellent read, particularly on why saying "Bonjour" matters.
When a vendor is helping someone with their purchases, they will (usually) not help anyone else. Even if it is a 95-year-old woman taking her damn sweet time to choose her purchases. It is not you. It is the same respect that they give to every client. The vendor may or may not acknowledge you, but they know you are there. Sometimes this takes an infinite amount of patience.
From time to time when I am the client being served and I am still making selections I will tell the vendor he can help the next person while I continue to think about what I want, they always look at me incredulously but I think it is nice. Sometimes they will, sometimes they won't. Just be prepared that they usually help one client at a time.
The number one rule that most tourists break - and I have to admit even (the French) Mr. Misadventures got in trouble for doing this at a fruit stand on Rue Montorgueil. don't touch the produce! I know in the U.S. we grab/touch/poke/test our fruit and vegetables, etc. But it is a big no-no in France! (By the way, this is also a no-no in Spain and Italy.)
It is a hygiene issue - although lord knows, I've seen so many other unhygienic practices going on at markets, but it is what it is. The vendor will serve you. They are the masters and they will choose the "best" for you. However, do not let your eye off of them for a second or you may get something that doesn't look as optimal as it should!
The only time where it might be okay to pick your own is if you see plastic or paper bags in a pile available to you. That's (typically) a sign that you're welcome to pick out your own produce.
A coin purse is something I always pack when I am going to Paris (or other European destinations). You can't imagine how fast coins accumulate! You don't have big bulging pockets and most wallets don't accommodate the number of coins you will be dealing with. I have one with two sides, I put 1 and 2 Euro coins on one side and the rest of the denominations on the other.
It makes paying at the market quicker. Alternatively, if you don't want to feel flustered while counting out coins, bring small notes to pay - you'll end up with more coins but you won't have to worry about (a) ensuring you heard right for the total amount or (b) scrambling for coins.
The bags, plastic or otherwise, at the market are not that solid. And after you buy 2-3 things, your hands are full. I always bring multiple tote bags - ones for more delicate items, another for sturdier things, another for hot items, etc. We usually walk and/or take the metro to the various marchés so tote bags usually make transporting far easier.
Also, we were there in the spring when it was raining, and a lot of the paper bags disintegrate when they get wet. I often keep the sturdier plastic bags you get at some bakeries to double bag things, like chicken as the bag can be greasy. Tote bags don't take up a lot of room in your suitcase, alternatively, you can buy them for fairly cheap, or as souvenirs.
Everywhere! But each market has its own schedule so if you are looking for a particular one, check out these resources:
In English: Food and specialist markets from the official Paris info site.
In French: All the hours by marché by day from the Ville de Paris site.
During our most recent trip, we visited the Marché Richard Lenoir in Bastille when it was open both Thursday and Sunday, it is one of the best in Paris. We also love the market streets Rue Poncelet and Rue Montorgueil.
Well, the answer is, it depends! If you are staying in a rental apartment/home like an Airbnb, which is what we had during our last visit to Paris, then the answer is lots! In particular, I highly recommend:
The love for a good roasted chicken runs deep in the veins of any Frenchman. King Henry the 4th of France most notably says "I want there to be no peasant in my realm so poor that he will not have a chicken in his pot every Sunday." When I lived in France we had roasted chicken with potatoes that we bought in our local marché every weekend.
It is delicious, relatively inexpensive, will last a couple of meals, and is easy to prep. Not so easy to have if you are staying in a hotel, but if you plan ahead with plates and napkins and ask the vendor to cut your chicken, it still makes a wonderful picnic.
No matter where you are staying while visiting Paris, you can enjoy the very fresh fruit (and vegetables) that are available at the market. Mr. Misadventures and I personally think the quality is better and the origin closer to France when you buy in a marché versus a grocery store, but I don't have empirical proof. What I can say is that French strawberries have forever ruined any other strawberry for me.
I often buy a basket of strawberries to eat while I am shopping. Could you resist these? They do taste as good as they look!
This past April/May the raspberries and blueberries were sensational. I have always been ambivalent about these 2 berries but could not get enough on this trip!
The white asparagus was in season as well. That's another thing about the markets, the stands start to look all the same because the vendors sell what is in season. Take the time to look for the best product (at the best price if you can negotiate) because you have a choice!
Market streets like Rue Poncelet and Rue Montorgueil have vendors that take great pride in their displays. Look how lovely these tomatoes look.
Also, the radishes, traditionally served with butter and sea salt once you get them home, were divine!
There are hundreds of cheeses in France, if you count sub-varieties it can be over 1000! Take the time to try 1 or 2, okay a dozen while you are visiting. Lots of them cannot be imported to the United States, so it is a unique opportunity to taste cheeses you may never see again.
Of course, you can shop at the markets anytime they are open but there are a couple of times that are a little more optimal than others. The first is about 30 to 60 minutes after they open. When they are first open, the vendors are a little hassled getting set up (and waking up!) so they aren't as friendly (even though French people aren't overly friendly anyway!).
After about 30 minutes the vendors are warmed up and ready to go and anxious to sell, sell, sell! You will get the pick of the best.
The other best time is about 30 minutes before the market closes - you can get great deals. The vendors would rather not pack their product back up - every time they move they risk damaging it. Word of caution, it also when you risk getting produce that is it at its top freshness, but if you are okay with a little bruising, you can walk away with 2-for-1 and more!
You can have so much fun, absorb a lot of everyday French culture and life and find many delicious foods in France's markets/marchés, I highly recommend that you explore at least one on your next visit to Paris or France. Just remember to say "bonjour" and don't touch the fruit and vegetables!
How about you? Have you visited a market/marché in France? Have any additional tips? What's the best thing you bought? Do share!
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