Every weekend during the summer, New Yorkers travel to the Rockaways by subway or ferry to lie like sardines along the vast shoreline. On the barrier peninsula about 25 miles southeast of Manhattan, longtime storefronts and newly erected apartment complexes sit wall-to-wall on the same blocks, under the constant thrum of low-flying planes coming in and out of nearby JFK. And soft, warm weather waves send hundreds of beginner surfers flying shaky-legged into the sand on neon foam surfboards. It's a great place for a daytrip from the city, and worth the cab ride if you're on a long layover, too.
Though the sandy beaches might lure visitors from all over the five boroughs, what inspired me to move here is the palpable sense of community. Rockaway is a place where neighbors gather (usually to walk dogs or holler "Any waves?!" at each other), strangers who meet on surfboards become real friends back on land, and groups of residents regularly parade up and down the beaches collecting trash.
It's this sense of unity and pride that underpins Rockaway's small but mighty food scene, which is scattered across the long strip of beach boardwalk and the surrounding neighborhoods. The newly opened Moon Lot, an outdoor bar serving Thai street food, hosts local markets and spotlights guest chefs. The Cradle, a former pop-up turned beloved West African mainstay, grows most of its produce at a local farm on the peninsula. And, when the beloved Irish pub Connolly's Bar was put up for sale during the pandemic, two locals swooped in to preserve the community watering hole, which has been serving the Queens neighborhood since 1962.
Between surf lessons and sun-drenched dozing on the sand, here are the can't-miss Rockaway restaurants to try.
The essentials:\
If you're traveling by ferry to the Rockaways (by far the most fun way to get here), start your day at the recently opened Sovereign Surf. Just steps from the ferry landing, this mellow RV and shipping container setup sells new and used surfboards, vintage clothing, locally-made products, and excellent coffee. Browse their nostalgic vinyl collection while you sip, or pull up a sunny seat and watch the boats weave around Jamaica Bay.
For a fuller breakfast, Bernadette's, an emerald-hued restaurant on 95th street, is a tiny gem. Inside, locals linger over waffles, cyclists crush cold brew, and plates of eggs Florentine whip across the room like frisbees. Everything here is hearty and comforting, but nothing hits after a salty surf session quite like The Benny-a sandwich layered with black forest ham and bacon, a fried egg, New York cheddar, chives, microgreens, and a slick of hollandaise. Don't sleep on the smoked tomato confit, a tangy relish that makes any sandwich even better.
Like a siren song, Brothers on the boardwalk calls to me every morning. (I can hear it now.) The super fresh and veg-friendly menu whisks me back to my Australian homeland: pesto and a fried egg on a sourdough English muffin, spicy-sour kimchi grilled cheese, toast topped with green pea hummus, granola bowls with coconut yogurt and berry chia jam, and fresh smoothies and juices. It's also a great shorefront spot to stock up on sun-basking snacks, like chile-lime cashews and locally baked vegan cookies. Eating a few feet away on the beach is, of course, highly recommended.
Rockaway's vast stretch of Atlantic-facing beaches are home to the only designated surfing spots in New York City. Come summer, the water teams with colorful boards and the waves are typically small, gentle, and ideal for learning to surf. In between meals, shimmy into a rashguard and head out for a guided lesson with Locals Surf School. The chill but experienced instructors will teach you paddle basics, good ocean etiquette, and have you throwing shakas and standing up on your first waves in no time. Pro surfers can skip the lesson and rent a board from any of the friendly and well-stocked local surf shops, like Breakwater, Station, or Boarders. If you're not about swallowing seawater, cruise around much calmer Jamaica Bay on a stand up-paddle board instead.
After hours in the water, Caracas at 106th street has just what you'll be looking for-so long as you're willing to wait in line for a while. Claim a picnic table on the boardwalk, then order a piping hot Venezuelan arepa, split open and stuffed to the brim with ripe avocado and hunks of Guayanés cheese. That'll go with a frozen sangria, and the best fries on the strip-crisp, perfectly seasoned, and ideal for dunking in a bright and spicy chingona salsa or herby mayo. Caracas is a great evening hangout too; as the sun sets over the sea, the patio area transforms into a live music venue and dance floor.
If you've had enough sun and sand, head a few blocks inland to the Rockaway Beach Surf Club on 87th street, a surfboard-adorned ode to the neighborhood's favorite activity. Grab a salt-rimmed margarita at the bar, then make a beeline to the backyard and get in the long line for Tacoway Beach (or, a recent game changer: order online from your picnic table). Since 2008, the beloved summer-only stand has been churning out some of the best fried fish tacos in the area. The black bean, sweet plantain, and gooey cheese taco is an underrated must-order, too. Go with a group so you can try all the sides: homemade tortilla chips with guacamole or salsa, fresh mango and cucumber flecked with chile, elotes smothered in Cotija, and a refreshing mish-mash of pickled vegetables.
If the surf's bad but the sun's up, you'll find me cruising up and down Rocakway's 5.5 mile boardwalk on my bike, wind in my hair and oozy cinnamon soft serve (from the worshiped Rippers burger joint on 86th street) in my hand. Day-trippers can rent their own wheels from the friendly, helpful staff at Rockaway Beach Cycles on the corner of 99th street. Once you get all the way to Fort Tilden, lock up your bike and wander around the eerie abandoned U.S. Army base, built in 1917 to protect the New York harbor from land and sea attacks.
If you're sweaty and you know it, pedal back down to the Rockaway Brewing Co. on 72nd street for a cold pint of whatever's on draft. The 3,600-square-foot taproom sits inside a relaxed, industrial warehouse space with ample picnic tables, delicious rotating food options, live music, and great craft brews. For a true Rockaway delicacy, head to Irish surfer pub Connolly's Bar on 95th street and suck down a sweet and boozy frozen piña colada-crowned with a single ruby-red maraschino cherry.
The best perch for drinking is at the Bungalow Bar, on the north shore at 92nd street. Pull up a seat on the grassy patio or deck overlooking Jamaica Bay, and wash down some fried shrimp or fresh mussels with an alcoholic Arnold Palmer.
New but fast becoming a local favorite is the Moon Lot, just a block over from Connolly's. This outdoor bar and hangout space feels like a friend's backyard. It's also where you'll get a great snacky dinner in the form of excellent Thai street food-like zingy meat or mushroom larb and BBQ pork skewers-served straight from a refurbished shipping container. There's a range of drinks, including domestic and imported beers, hard seltzer, and nonalcoholic teas. Don't leave without ordering dessert: homemade mango ice cream melting slowly on a warm bed of butterfly pea-infused coconut sticky rice.
After a long work day, The Cradle, a former pop-up-turned-mainstay, is an ideal comfort food destination. Both locations-a colorful curbside cafe on 96th street and a concession stand at Jacob Riis beach-serve West African dishes like efo riro, crispy samosas, and cassava fries; meat and vegetable bowls with sweet plantains and jollof rice; and a variety of fresh juices and smoothies. Produce used at both locations is sourced from their local farm plot on 45th street-a freshness you really can taste.