Standing beneath a towering Douglas fir on the lakeside grounds of Quaaout Lodge & Spa, northeast of Vancouver, B.C., an Indigenous woman named Britt leads me through my first smudging ceremony, a ritual she calls "a bath for your spirit." To create the cleansing smoke, Britt burns sage and evergreen needles in a pearlescent abalone shell. I close my eyes and inhale the woodsy scent. When it opened three decades ago, Quaaout, which is owned and operated by the Little Shuswap Lake Indian Band, part of the Secwépemc First Nation, was an Indigenous tourism pioneer in B.C.. Now interest in these kinds of experiences is booming as travelers seek out authentic, responsible ways to engage with the places they visit. This summer, three more First Nations communities have opened eco-resorts, adding to a solid base of Indigenous-owned businesses throughout the province that includes Salmon n' Bannock Bistro on the coast and long-loved Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort in the Kootenays.
In 2019, the Xeni Gwet'in and Ts^ilhqot'in First Nations purchased this former guest ranch and cabins, located a stone's throw from the craggy peaks of Ts'ilos Provincial Park, a remote, wildly pristine destination a seven-hour drive northwest from Whistler. Following a massive renovation, it reopened in June as a wilderness retreat and cultural center. Here, elders share skills like drumming, beading, and plant medicine. On the first evening, guests are welcomed by one of the chiefs and invited to hear the Xeni Gwet'in creation story and history as stewards of these lands. An on-site herb-and-vegetable garden supplies the kitchen where Ben Genaille, a celebrated Indigenous chef, serves up the local bounty of fresh fish, elk, and venison. A stay at Nemiah Valley Lodge, including meals and activities, runs from $1,500 for three nights.
The Klahoose First Nation has been operating its xawgs (grizzly bear) viewing tours in the coastal rain forest of Toba Inlet, at the northern end of the Salish Sea, since 2016. Its new off-the-grid waterfront resort, accessible only by water taxi or seaplane, opened for its first full season this spring, allowing the Klahoose to provide a more immersive wildlife experience for up to 26 guests. Every stay includes a guided boat tour where you'll see orcas, humpback whales, dolphins, and sea lions. For grizzlies, wait until late August, when the bears are feeding on spawning salmon. Any season is right for Indigenous storytelling and song, learning the art of cedar-weaving, and relaxing on the massive deck overlooking the tranquil waters of the second deepest channel in North America. A stay at Klahoose Wilderness Resort, including meals and activities, runs from $1,920 for three nights.
In May, the Indigenous-owned Haida Tourism group opened 12 new ocean-view cabins as part of its existing Haida House at Tllaal property, a 10-room lodge on 50 sprawling acres along Graham Island's dramatic east coast, part of the remote Haida Gwaii archipelago just south of the Alaska Panhandle. Inspired by traditional longhouse architecture, each cedar cabin has floor-to-ceiling views of the forest fading into the sand dunes, an outdoor shower, and a private deck-top hot tub. From this luxe base camp, Haida cultural interpreters and guides lead daily outings like visiting Indigenous artist studios in town, taking a Zodiac ride to the site of an ancient village, and hiking through the rain forest while learning about local ecology and geological history. A stay at The Cabins at Haida House, including meals and activities, runs from $2,500 for three nights.
This article appeared in the July/August 2022 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.