MILAN - Marco de Vincenzo has been tapped by Marina Rinaldi, Max Mara Group's label dedicated to women with curves and plus-size figures, to design two capsule collections.
The first capsule, created for the fall 2021 season, will hit the Marina Rinaldi boutiques, as well as the brand's online store, in September. Previously, Marina Rinaldi worked with a range of designers, including Tsumori Chisato, Stella Jean, Fausto Puglisi, Roksanda Ilincic and Antonio Berardi.
The collaboration with Marina Rinaldi marks a return to the limelight for de Vincenzo. The designer, whose last fashion show dates back to February 2020, has bought back his namesake brand from his former partners, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and MMGP Srl, a company that also controls Cieffe Milano, the manufacturing firm that used to produce the Marco de Vincenzo collections. LVMH, which invested in the brand in 2014, had a 45 percent stake, while MMGP Srl controlled 35 percent of the company.
"The COVID-19 emergency put in the spotlight problems that we already had in the company," de Vincenzo said. "I needed a break to reset, reorganize, return in control and now I'm ready to start again," added the designer, anticipating that he will show a new project in May.
In keeping with his signature feminine and lively aesthetic, de Vincenzo brought a joyful, bold vibe to Marina Rinaldi by playing with audacious color effects, as well as with his signature plissé motifs and charming textures.
"I'm very happy with the result, because I think that this first capsule really represents the aesthetic of my brand," de Vincenzo said. "When I started approaching the project, I considered doing something very different from what I normally create, but then working in collaboration with the brand's in-house team, I changed my mind and I focused on things that are so close to my brand's identity. It has been really interesting to see how my ideas can work also for a more inclusive range of body types."
The collection, which the designer thinks will cater to women whose taste is "not minimalistic, especially when it comes to colors," includes a coat and a stole, both crafted from faux fur, showing a multicolor dégradé effect. The latter also embellishes a caban featuring a flattering shawl collar and maxi buttons.
De Vincenzo played with his signature optical illusions on a turtleneck dress with dolman sleeves and on a top featuring a sensual boat neck. Colorful trimmings, intentionally unfinished, gave a fresh and smart twist to the suits, including a white one where the elongated blazer was matched with a skirt with a front slit, while a multicolored polka dot motif added a playful vibe to a shirtdress, a georgette blouse and a plissé skirt.
"With this collection I wanted to convey a message of freedom: women can play with prints, colors and eccentricity whatever their size is. Fun is for everyone," de Vincenzo said. "Marina Rinaldi has a clear, established aesthetic, which international women love. I just wanted to bring my personal contribution to the project adding a touch of happiness and joy."
To promote the launch of the capsule collection, with retail prices spanning from 235 euros for a turtleneck top to 1,500 euros for a double-face wool coat, Marina Rinaldi tapped Precious Lee. She previously fronted the brand's campaigns supporting the second collection designed by Antonio Berardi, which hit stores in February and marked the 40th anniversary of the label.
"Precious Lee is the perfect woman to embody the spirit of my capsule," de Vincenzo said. "She is exuberant, beautiful, young and fun."
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