© Kristin TeigThe beloved Los Angeles baker talks to Shondaland about her much-anticipated cookbook,"Mother Grains."
Heralded as one of the most exciting cookbooks coming out this spring, Roxana Jullapat's debut work, Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain Revolution, explores eight ancient grains, weaving the unique characteristics and history of each with more than 90 recipes that explore delicious applications, both sweet and savory.
Originally from Costa Rica, Jullapat initially set out to have a career in journalism before finding her passion in the kitchen. She decided to attend culinary school, and afterward she worked at lauded Los Angeles restaurants, including Campanile, Opaline, Lucques/A.O.C., and Cooks County, and with renowned chefs such as Nancy Silverton and Suzanne Goin.
Jullapat is now pastry chef and co-owner, with her husband chef Daniel Mattern, of beloved Los Angeles bakery Friends & Family, which opened in 2017, and works with dedicated farmers and millers around the country to incorporate essential grains in every item on the menu.
Geared for both novice bakers/cooks and professionals alike, each chapter of Mother Grains focuses on a particular grain, studying its lineage and unique importance in American agriculture, along with its environmental and nutritional benefits and the various forms in which it is available. The ancient grains include barley, corn, buckwheat, oats, rice, rye, sorghum, and wheat.
Jullapat also includes sections on terminology, approaching and working with mother grains, sourcing, weights, and measurements (the recipes give both volume and more exacting metric measurements), along with pantry and tool suggestions and information.
Ancient as these grains may be, Jullapat makes them feel fresh and new, both with her captivating descriptions and through her tantalizing, and very modern, recipes.
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NOELLE CARTER: Tell me a little about the book. When did you start working on it, and what was your inspiration?
ROXANA JULLAPAT: We opened [Friends & Family] in 2017. Before then, we were at our old place, Cooks County, on Beverly Boulevard on the Westside. At the time, I'd started to do more intentional exploration with grains, partly because a lot of independent mills around the country, and a few local farms, were bringing us the product. It was palpable that grains were going to play a more relevant role in the foodscape and that things were getting pretty interesting.
[After leaving Cooks County], my husband, Dan, and I took a break for two years. We were able to travel, do a lot of home cooking, hang out with friends, go out to eat things that you may think one does when you're a chef, but you really don't at all. And so I started to slowly incorporate grains into absolutely everything I did, from the pancakes I would make over the weekend to any special cake that I would bake for catering events, et cetera.
By then, I knew I wanted to open a bakery, and we had the space and were under construction. It became, for me, a mission to take all my tried-and-true recipes and see where they can acquire a new grainy personality. That was incredibly fun, and it showed me how much potential [various grains] had, and that it wasn't that hard to find something to be gained by using these ingredients in every single application.
NC: You mention your inspiration; one might argue that Los Angeles is very inspirational with the small mills that have recently opened and the growing availability of various grains. Is there a sort of symbiotic relationship vis-à-vis the increased product, millers and farmers in and around L.A., and pastry chefs and bakers when it comes to inspiration and creativity?
RJ: Actually, I think L.A., given its purchasing power, is actually kind of behind in this grain movement. I was very impressed after doing some traveling, including back home to Costa Rica for a bit and traveling through Turkey. I was also in Taiwan for a couple of weeks, and then I traveled more extensively through Scandinavia. And what I realized was that, for those of us in L.A., things are kind of more identifiable as trends. We needed to define this sort of usage of grain as sort of like"the new cupcakes," the"bright shiny object" that we might put on like a fancy-suit kind of thing.
NC: A fad, in a way.
RJ: The thing about grains is that they are so much more. They're all around us, and they've come to define us as a civilization and as a culture. It doesn't take long to realize that you don't have to do something new as much as you have to embrace something that is part of who we are already, part of our fabric. I like the approach to grains in the Midwest in particular because this is the breadbasket - or flour basket - of the country. It's a vast agricultural land that was shaped and defined by growing grain throughout American history. And I feel their approach is very earnest in a very Midwestern way. Grains are pretty accessible, and the people are knowledgeable of the varieties. That, and it's more affordable than grain in California, which has a lot to do with the price of land and water rights. Also, I feel like there's more density of mills in other parts of that country than in L.A.
The one thing that L.A. has is - and trust me when I say this; with all the research I've done for a long time and for this book, I don't say it lightly - L.A. has the best mill I've encountered, and that is Grist & Toll. They are insanely good at what they do and incredibly meticulous, and their attention to detail is incomparable. After purchasing flours on multiple continents, I haven't seen flour as good as Grist & Toll's. And this quality is what makes whole-grain baking easy, accessible, and successful, not just for a business but also for those aficionados and all the home bakers really into the whole-grain movement.
NC: Your book is titled Mother Grains. How would you define a mother grain, and why did you choose to focus on eight specific grains in particular?
RJ: When I think about mother grains, I try to draw dry distinctions between powerhouse grains and grains with a lesser agricultural output. It's similar to how one might categorize mother sauces [the five main sauces fundamental to French cooking, from which all other sauces are derived]. They're these humongous categories from which we pull - I'm not sure that we can call them daughter grains, or even sister grains - but smaller branches.
I feel that there are eight grains [barley, buckwheat, corn, oats, rice, rye, sorghum, and wheat] that are very, very important to American agriculture and its history and identity. These are grains that have fueled economies, that are cultural catalysts, that are part of the identity of specific regions of the United States, and they're also even political propellers. And we're talking about a good chunk of time, like 400 years, and, while they've gone through their periods of ups and downs, we can identify their influence.
And in terms of their usage in the kitchen, they are large, broad categories from which we can pull. And while there are smaller grains that are quite popular - quinoa would be a perfect example - it's not important to American agriculture, or American identity, or our economy, really.
NC: When I first saw the title, I made a similar association, immediately thinking of mother sauces, and it's a great way to approach them. I also love your piece on grain terminology. We hear terms such as"ancient" and"heirloom,""artisan,""alternative," and"whole" grains. What is the difference? And what is a landrace grain?
RJ: So,"ancient grains" is probably the term that is the most appropriate when we were talking about these eight grains. So, even though it's almost a new term, this describes something that we've known for a long time, and we can identify their genetic makeup back for millennia. And it drives home the message of how important these grains are.
"Heirloom" would apply in the same way we might use it with vegetables. I think of it as more of a gardening term, and it's a grain or vegetable we generally understand to be at least a hundred years old or so. I think it illustrates the fact that these grains have been domesticated and have been around for some time and that they are not industrial.
I like the term"artisanal". It doesn't say anything about the genetic material of the grain itself, but it does say something about the way it's handled, so it can refer to its artisanal level of cultivation. It can also refer to artisanal technology when it comes to harvesting, cleaning, and milling, such as when we use the term"stone ground."
"Alternative" is a stupid word. I think it became a popular way to talk about grains because it would indicate that things that were gluten-free, or grain-free, or generally not in the mainstream of things. And I feel it's totally associated with the health craze. That and I think it's confusing. Alternative to what?
"Whole grain" means that the whole kernel went into the flour, and the proportion of bran to endosperm to germ is as it appears in nature. [As opposed to whole-grain flours, which are ground intact, commonly white and all-purpose flours are refined, with the bran and germ removed in processing.]
"Landrace" is not a term I use frequently, but farmers use it a lot. And I think they're often referring to grain that they have grown on their own properties for some time, and so the seeds adapt to their particular farm and methods. This almost conveys a sense of terroir. Something grown in the Central Valley of California will be different than Napa Valley.
NC: Beyond the touted health benefits, you are very passionate about grains as part of a larger ecosystem, and their many roles, be they bumper crops, et cetera. Why is this so important?
RJ: There are a couple of things that are more macro, or more big picture, when it comes to the mission of using grains in general. When we use grains in the kitchen, and when we buy them at the store or supermarket, we promote the people growing them, and we are sending a strong message that this is the kind of grain we want to see in the world.
We need to look at food in a different way. The power of the dollar is important. Also, it's no secret that, living in California, we have a drought every few years. In an environment where we're constantly challenged by climate change, grains that are more beneficial and sustainable will be very important. In the case of grains such as sorghum, the fact we can grow them using less acreage in an ever-changing climate environment means we are promoting innovative ways to achieve food security. And this will become a more and more pressing challenge as time goes by.
NC: For someone who is new to these grains, is there, for lack of a better term, a"gateway grain" you might recommend to novice bakers?
RJ: Yes. I always call spelt the gateway grain. And this is because there's no doubt that you will be using a whole grain with a characteristic flavor, right? A different look and a different flavor, and a different feel. However, [spelt] is incredibly user-friendly and often works as an all-purpose flour, meaning that you can use it in the same proportion - one-to-one - and be very successful. It's easy to understand - like, it will not do weird things, like it won't be gritty like cornmeal, or gummy like buckwheat. It will feel familiar yet interesting.
NC: Awesome. Related question: Are the grains interchangeable in the recipes?
RJ: The simplest answer is yes.
NC: Yes? Really?
RJ: Yes. However, there's a big"however." I think the most important thing to understand is that when I say that we need a gateway grain, and the reason why I often preach about spelt as the gateway grain, is because it means that it opens a door. Opening the door means that you're going to acquire a skill at whole-grain baking over time. So it's not a magical swap, always. [As you learn to work with them], you become more proficient in baking with whole grains. You will understand things, such as buckwheat is a gluten-free flour. So, that means that perhaps we can't make bread out of it, but it makes a great pancake, right? So, it all depends.
NC: So, while grains may be interchangeable, it's a process, and one has to have an understanding. A baker needs to acquire knowledge. This can't be done blindly.
RJ: And that's why I think that these grains are so important for you as a baker, because they will actually make you an engaged and present baker if your entire senses are 100-percent immersed in the process. Things will look different; they smell different. They feel different and taste. Being 100-percent mindful and present in the process is good for you. We talk so much about having mindfulness and meditation, et cetera. This is a perfect example of how we can be 100 percent in the moment and yet in the world.
NC: I'd love to talk about your book and its place as part of the grain movement. I think about your book as kind of part of a lineage that started 10 or so years ago with Kim Boyce's book [Good to the Grain]. Where do you see the grain movement going from here? And do you see wheat taking a backseat eventually to some of these other grains?
RJ: I feel like we're not going to see wheat become less important [than] other grains. I think that wheat is going to change. Commodity wheat will have to yield some of this vast monopoly of the flour mill to [others]. I see that already happening.
Many of the people doing great work with grain are in their own kitchens, working on new recipes and kind of collaborating with our local grain hubs. So, you'll find where there's a great bakery, there's usually a great supplier.
Also, we just went through an epidemic. So, I know that a lot of pastry staff were let go of their restaurant jobs. That was a hit for the community. But all these people are still baking from home, and having small sales, and getting their own cottage-industry licenses, et cetera.
So, I think that this is going to be a slow, small but mighty evolution. I learned a lot from Kim Boyce's book, and it definitely felt very timely for the moment. And other, mainly incidentally, women continue to write about grains. I would like to say that my role has been more of a disruptor, and I want to make sure that my contribution to the grain conversation reflects the fact that I am a BIPOC baker, and that my baking experience is influenced by the fact that I work in a diverse city and environment where there's a constant conversation about different baking traditions and attention about what it means to be a minority baker and working with minority growers and an agricultural community that depends heavily on immigrant labor.
NC: That's so incredibly important.
RJ: And there's also the other side of the grain world, the baking world, and that is very masculine. So, I want to be in opposition of all that. So, while I still feel like I'm part of their grain movement, I also want to be a thorn on their side.
It's also that we are changing. The community of bakers is changing. And the younger generation of bakers are following the ones pushing the most for these grains. And I see it in my staff, but I also see it among a lot of pastry chefs doing important work here in Los Angeles. And that's awesome.
NC: One last question, and it's a tip for readers. Can you tell me a few indispensable tools every baker should have? Perhaps a few of your favorites?
RJ: Yes. I would say the most important is a rolling pin. I am particular about mine, but I won't judge. Just have one.
NC: What is your favorite?
RJ: French. I like the French style, not tapered. And I tend not to like the ones with handles.
I also think you should have a terrific, awesome wooden spoon. Actually, you should have several, but definitely have wooden spoons.
And then I also like my heat-resistant spatula lot. The one I have is Le Creuset, and if it breaks, I buy exactly the same one, same color, everything. Mine is red.
Chocolate Dynamite Cookies
© Kristin Teigchocolate dynamite cookies from roxana jullapat's mother grains
About 40 minutes, plus chilling time for the dough. Makes about 16 cookies
Are you ready to be invited to every potluck, picnic, and dinner party? If yes, mark this page. Take a batch of these to your next social gathering, and you're guaranteed to make a splash, becoming everyone's best friend. As the name suggests, these cookies elicit explosive reactions to all who try them. Rich and gooey, with a tender interior and crispy edges, these wheat-free, entirely whole-grain cookies are reminiscent of a fudgy brownie loaded with chocolate chips.
"The dough is simple, but you can't rush the process. It begins with melted butter and chocolate, which makes the mixture quite sticky. To make the dough malleable, you must chill it for at least 1 hour. Although it may be tempting, never skip this step. I enjoy melty, freshly baked cookies, so I bake shortly before serving - a euphoric experience indeed. The baked cookies will sit well at room temperature and are just as enjoyable once cooled."
Ingredients
- ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (80 g) dark rye flour
- 2 tablespoons Dutch-processed cocoa powder
- ½ teaspoon baking powder
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- 6 tablespoons (¾ stick/85 g) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes
- 2 cups (350 g) bittersweet chocolate chips
- 1 cup (200 g) sugar
- 2 large eggs
- ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Instructions
- Sift the rye flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt into a bowl.
- Place the butter and half of the chocolate chips in a large, heat-resistant bowl. Place the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom doesn't touch the water. Stir with a heat-resistant rubber spatula to encourage the chocolate and butter to melt. Remove from heat when the chocolate and butter are melted.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the melted chocolate mixture with the sugar on low speed. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing briefly after each addition. Add the vanilla and the sifted ingredients, continuing to mix on low speed until a uniform dough forms. Stir in the remaining chocolate chips and mix just to combine. The dough will be very sticky, almost like a cake batter.
- Transfer the dough to a separate container, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.
- Place two oven racks in the middle positions and preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
- Remove the cookie dough from the refrigerator. Divide the dough into 16 equal portions, about 1½ ounces (42 g) each. Working quickly, roll each piece into a ball. Place the cookies on the prepared sheets, and space at least 2 inches apart. They will expand and grow significantly as they bake.
- Bake for 8 minutes. Then rotate the sheets, switch their positions in the oven, and bake for another 7 to 8 minutes until the tops of the cookies are no longer shiny (except for a few visible melty chocolate chips). Rotating and switching the sheets halfway through the baking process will ensure that the cookies bake evenly. The ideal cookie will be set around the edges with a softer, almost underdone center. Remove the cookies, and let cool completely or enjoy while still slightly warm.
Reprinted from"Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain Revolution." Copyright © 2021 by Roxana Jullapat. With permission of the publisher, W. W. Norton & Company, Inc. All rights reserved.
Noelle Carter is a chef, food writer, and culinary consultant at Noelle Carter Food. She was the longtime test-kitchen director and food writer at the Los Angeles Times and a contributor to The Splendid Table, a nationally syndicated radio program from American Public Media. A native Southern Californian, she also holds a degree in film from
University of California School of Cinematic Arts. Follow Noelle on Twitter @noellecarter.
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