© Hot Rod Network Staff
001-john-mcgann-c10-wiring-startup
The list of things to do keeps getting smaller as we push to get Truck Norris, our project 1967 Chevrolet C10 pickup back on the road. Over the last few days, I got the engine started and ran the transmission through the gears. Minus a leak at the fuel pump outlet, there were no problems. The engine sounds great and has good oil pressure, the transmission shifts smoothly, and there are no scary sounds coming from the driveline. Let's check out how we got the engine running.
© Hot Rod Network Staff It's difficult to get an engine running without a starter motor, and we happened to have this Pertronix Contour series starter on the shelf, just waiting for an opportunity like this. The compact shape is an evolution of the Pertronix line of Harley-Davidson motorcycle starters, interestingly enough. That's an application where light weight and lots of cranking power are essential. A few years ago, Pertronix adapted that design to automotive applications, and ours, P/N S3000P, has a retail price of $278. A version is also available with a black finish, and the product line includes part numbers for LS, Ford, and Chrysler engines, as well.
© Hot Rod Network Staff The starter's already compact body is clockable to fit in tight spaces. You can see there's plenty of room between it and the headers. It works with both 153 and 168-tooth flywheels, and I especially like the side-mount terminals. They are much easier to reach than typical Chevy starters. The gear-reduction motor rated at 200 lb-ft of torque, which is more than enough for our 9.5:1 compression small block.
© Hot Rod Network Staff The power steering lines were the next item on the list, and I used hose and fittings from Earl's. The hose (P/N 130606ERL) is a dedicated high-pressure hose for applications up to 2,250 psi, such as power steering and other hydraulic or pneumatic applications. In spite of its strength, the hose is flexible enough to run in a tight configuration.
© Hot Rod Network Staff We are currently working on a more detailed article on building the power steering lines, but in short, they require dedicated fittings on the hose side and -6AN ends to match fittings in the pump and steering rack.
© Hot Rod Network Staff I installed -6AN male adapter fittings in the steering rack, which takes a 5/8 18 O-ring fitting on the pressure side and 9/16 -18 O-ring on the return side. After trying several different routings, this seemed to be the cleanest and most accessible, should servicing be needed later on.
© Hot Rod Network Staff The radiator and fan assembly are from Performance Rod & Custom and are a carryover from the previous 540 big block setup. The three-row aluminum radiator and dual fan assembly kept the big block cool, so the 350 here won't pose much of a challenge.
© Hot Rod Network Staff I even reused the radiator hoses after dropping a 175-degree thermostat in the housing.
© Hot Rod Network Staff The fans were triggered by AEM's Infinity ECM with the big-block, so with the current carbureted small-block, I'll have to wire the fans to have key-on 12-volt power to the relays that grounds through this Spal coolant temperature sender. It will turn the fans on at 195 degrees and off at 180. To test their operation, I hooked up jumper wires on the power and ground side.
© Hot Rod Network Staff After a final check of all components, I started the engine. After bumping the timing up a bit, the engine started and ran, and I could set the timing at 14 degrees initial and 32 degrees at about 2,500 rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected.
© Hot Rod Network Staff My oil pressure gauge and voltmeter displayed healthy readings with about 50 psi oil pressure at idle and 14.6 volts, which indicates the alternator is functioning correctly. Running the transmission through all the gears showed normal operation, as well, with smooth clutch engagement and no alarming noises.
© Hot Rod Network Staff With these checks done, there are just a few more steps until Truck Norris is roadworthy. I need to wire in the fans, backup lights, and the oil pressure and water temperature sending units. Then I can put the bed back on, secure the battery cables, do a final check of fasteners and connections, and take it on a test drive. It won't be long now!